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How to Fix a Slice: One Move, Not Ten

Adair Finch4 min read

Updated July 2026

A slice happens because your clubface is open relative to your swing path when it strikes the ball — that's it, that's the whole mechanical cause. Everything else golf instruction usually piles on top (stance, alignment, weight shift, hip rotation) can help, but if the face is square to your path at impact, you physically cannot slice the ball. Fix the face first. Everything else is a tune-up.

  • A slice is sidespin caused by an open clubface relative to the swing path at impact — not primarily a path problem.
  • The fastest fix is grip: rotate your lead hand until you can see roughly three knuckles at address.
  • A flatter lead wrist at the top of the backswing helps the face return square more naturally on the way down.
  • Aiming further left to "play the slice" usually makes the underlying path worse, not better — aim straight and fix the cause.
  • Swing path matters too, but it's the second fix, not the first — chase face control before path control.

What Actually Causes a Slice?

Ball flight is governed overwhelmingly by where the clubface is pointing at the moment of impact, with swing path playing a secondary role in how much the ball curves. An open face relative to path puts sidespin on the ball that curves it away from your dominant hand's side — right for a right-handed golfer. Most slicers also swing outside-in (path moving across the ball from outside the target line to inside), which compounds the curve, but the face is doing most of the damage. This is exactly why "aim left and swing hard" doesn't fix anything — it can actually make the outside-in path worse while doing nothing about the open face.

The One Move: Fix the Grip First

Check your lead hand at address. If you can only see one knuckle (or none) when you look down, your grip is likely too "weak" in golf terms, meaning it encourages an open face at impact. Rotate that hand slightly clockwise (for a right-handed golfer) until you can comfortably see about three knuckles. This alone squares the clubface earlier and more naturally through the swing, without you having to consciously manipulate anything mid-downswing — which is nearly impossible to do consistently at speed anyway.

The Second Move: Clean Up the Wrist at the Top

If your lead wrist is heavily cupped (bent backward) at the top of your backswing, it tends to open the face further, adding to the problem the grip fix is already solving. Getting to a flatter, more neutral lead wrist position at the top gives the face a much better starting point to return square through impact. You don't need a swing coach's vocabulary to feel this — pause at the top in front of a mirror and see whether your wrist looks cupped or flat.

Only Then: Work on Swing Path

Once the face is more reliably square, path becomes a much smaller problem — a slightly outside-in path with a square face produces a much straighter, more playable shot than a square path with an open face ever will. If you still see a slice after a few weeks of grip and wrist work, it's worth working on shifting your weight into your lead heel and letting your arms drop "inside" on the downswing rather than throwing the club outward from the top.

What About Setup and Alignment?

Set your feet, hips, and shoulders parallel to your target line, and resist the urge to aim left to compensate for the curve. Slicers who aim left are training an even more severe outside-in path, since their brain is now trying to swing toward a target that isn't actually where they want the ball to end up. Fix the face, aim straight, and let the ball flight tell you what's left to correct.

Sources

Frequently Asked Questions

For a lot of golfers, yes — a genuinely weak grip is the single most common root cause, and just strengthening it resolves the slice without any other changes needed.
Some — clubs with more offset or a draw-bias design can reduce the effect of an open face, and certain golf balls spin less and curve less severely. See the beginner golf ball guide, but treat equipment as a band-aid, not the fix — the grip and face issue is still worth solving directly.
Usually, yes — the driver's longer shaft and lower loft amplify sidespin's visible effect on ball flight, and less backspin means more sidespin has room to curve the ball. The same face-and-path cause applies to every club, though.
Grip changes can show up in ball flight within a single range session, though it often feels uncomfortable at first because it's unfamiliar. Full consistency under real course pressure typically takes several weeks of repetition. For a broader look at what beginners should prioritize while working on this, see the golf for beginners guide.